Oil vs Water Polyurethane: Comparing the Finishes on Wood

My refinishing goals are simple. I want the wood grain to pop, ensure clarity, and provide a long-lasting protective finish. Is that really too much to ask for?! Water-based polyurethane has been my go-to product for sealing painted furniture. However, it did not create the look I wanted for dramatic wood grain. So I decided to test oil vs water polyurethane and choose, once and for all, the best finish for wood furniture.

Using blocks of cherry wood, I tested an oil-based polyurethane, a water-based polyurethane, and a third challenger, a middle-ground combo: dewaxed shellac, followed by water-based poly.

My primary focus would be how each product affected the grain’s clarity and the wood’s warmth.

The Contenders: Three Finishes, One Wood Type

I opted to use products I already had in the workshop:

• Avis Hoogglans Polyurethane (oil-based, high gloss)
• Hermadix Meubellak in Glans (water-based, gloss)
• Homemade Dewaxed Shellac under the Hermadix water poly

Each of the products was applied to a piece of cherry wood that was cut into three. Same piece of wood, guaranteeing a fair fight.   

If you’re unsure you have cherry, here’s how to identify cherry wood.

Pros and Cons of Each Polyurethane Finish

There is a debate as to which type of poly is the best, so lets breka down the pros and cons of each. So you can consider what’s best for your next project.

Oil-Based Polyurethane

• Pros: Brings out warmth; enhances grain contrast; solid durability
• Cons: Will amber or yellow over time (depending on the wood tone, it may not be an issue); long drying periods; solvent clean-up required

Water-Based Polyurethane

• Pros: Dries fast; doesn’t yellow; easy to clean up; crystal-clear finish, often low voc.
• Cons: Can feel cold or plastic-y on some woods; doesn’t enrich the wood tone

Want to explore other finish types? Here’s my complete guide to wood finishes.

Applying Avis Oil Based Polyurethane

Let me say this upfront: I tried not to let the shine throw me. Comparing a high gloss against a gloss can be deceiving. So, paying attention to the grain and wood tones (rather than shine), the oil-based polyurethane instantly brought out the warm undertones. It’s why oil-based finishes remain a fan favourite. Wood tones simply glow with oil products.

While the Avis Polyurethane dried, I noticed a few dry patches appearing. No need to panic. After the recommended 24 hours of drying time, I sanded lightly with my favourite 3m Finishing pads. Then, I recoated with the oil poly again.

Applying Hermadix Water-Based Polyurethane

When applying the water-based poly, the wood tone didn’t change much. It sealed the wood and gave it a glossy effect. The wood grain and tones remained closer to the raw cherry appearance. This would be perfect for a project where you wanted the wood to appear raw. I recommend opting for the matte version.

Applying Dewaxed Shellac and Water Poly

It’s no secret this combo is a favourite of mine.

The shellac-plus-poly combo hits the middle ground and cancels out the con’s of both polys.

The clear shellac I used warmed the cherry, while the water-based poly ensures a clear protective finish that won’t yellow over time.

Side-by-Side Results: Oil vs Water Polyurethane on Cherry Wood

Here’s how they stacked up:

• Oil Poly (Avis): Rich, amber glow; strong grain pop; thick glossy finish.
• Water Poly (Hermadix): Clean and clear; no huge colour shift over raw cherry. Opt for a Matte version to create a raw wood look.
• Shellac + Water Poly: Gentle warmth, balanced clarity, smooth surface sheen. The colour change would have been even warmer if I had opted for an amber or garnet shellac.

Learn more about the different colours of shellac.

Dry time also mattered:

• Oil poly: Needed 24 hours between coats—over two days for a full finish
• Water poly: Just one hour between coats; done in two hours
• Shellac combo: 30 minutes per shellac layer (I used two), plus two coats of water poly. Total time: 3 hours

Visual learners? I’ve got you covered!

Watch how I applied each of the polys to the cherry wood and see the colour tones change immediately.

When to Use Each Finish

• Choose oil poly if you want depth and glow—and don’t mind a bit of ambering over time.
• Choose water poly if you’re sealing pale woods or want a neutral, modern look.
• Use dewaxed shellac plus water poly when you want warmth in the wood without the risk of long-term yellowing.

Yellowing in oil-based Poly over time

This test was completed in two days. Therefore, I’m not sharing the longer-term effects of oil poly on cherry wood. I plan to leave these blocks in the workshop (where I get sunlight) and see how each board reacts over time. Perhaps the yellowing isn’t as bad as I fear. Only time will tell. I will definitely update this post with the results in the future.

Furthermore, this test used cherry wood, which naturally darkens with age. Another factor to consider. Learn more in my cherry wood ID article.

Final Thoughts

This polyurethane test confirmed what I suspected—water poly keeps things clean, oil brings drama, and shellac finds the sweet spot. I’ll stick with the combo for my pieces that require additional long-term protection that other finishes do not offer.

Let me know what your go-to poly is in the comments. Have I missed a pro or con that should have been included?